Beyond the Crowds: Discovering the Unexplored Charms of Northern Kerala

Houseboat on Vembanad Lake

Unexplored Northern Kerala: Backwaters, Houseboats & Scenic Rail Journeys

When most travellers think of Kerala, their minds drift south - to the beaches of Kovalam, the canals of Alleppey, and the tea plantations of Munnar. But those willing to journey a little further north are rewarded with a quieter, more contemplative Kerala, lush with coconut groves, shimmering waterways, and villages where time still slips by at the pace of a punted canoe.

​At Darjeeling Tours, we’re always looking for routes less travelled, and Northern Kerala is a region that delights precisely because it hasn’t been polished for mass tourism. This is where the state’s famed backwaters open up in unexpected ways, where houseboats float across Vembanad Lake under starlit skies, and where you can arrive in style aboard the Konkan Railway, one of India’s most scenic train journeys. Our Konkan Railways and Beyond tour offers luxury houseboat accommodation as well as the opportunity to experience the best stop-offs along this iconic rail route.

Vembanad Lake: The Heart of the Backwaters

​Spanning several districts including Kottayam, Alappuzha, and Ernakulam, Vembanad is Kerala’s largest lake and a vast aquatic playground for traditional houseboats, fishermen, and rare birdlife. While the southern reaches of the lake near Alleppey are no stranger to tourism, its northern shores near Kumarakom and Vaikom offer a quieter, more authentic experience.

Here, the backwaters feel less like a destination and more like a way of life. Local ferries weave between villages, children paddle to school, and women in bright saris wash clothes at the water’s edge while egrets stalk silently nearby. It’s a landscape best appreciated slowly; and there’s no better way to do that than aboard a kettuvallam, a traditional houseboat made of coir and jackwood.

Unlike the larger commercial operations farther south, the houseboats in northern Vembanad tend to be smaller, family-run, and less crowded, offering a more intimate, peaceful experience. Glide through lotus-strewn canals by day, dine on freshly caught pearl spot fish (or spiced jackfruit for the vegetarians), and sleep to the sound of water lapping gently beneath your room.

Vembanad lake by Vinayaraj, CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Arriving by Rail: The Romance of the Konkan Line

​The journey to Northern Kerala is part of the adventure. One of the most scenic ways to reach this region is via the Konkan Railway, an engineering marvel that hugs the dramatic west coast of India. Trains like the Matsyagandha Express or the Netravati Express carry you south from Goa or Mumbai through a corridor of lush hills, waterfalls, and sun-drenched villages.

As the train winds its way down the coast, you’ll pass endless coconut plantations, river crossings on soaring bridges, and glimpses of the Arabian Sea. Disembark at Kottayam, Ernakulam or even the quieter station at Vaikom Road, and you’re just a short drive or tuk-tuk ride from the water’s edge.

Rail enthusiasts will appreciate not only the views but the sense of continuity the Konkan line provides, linking the Portuguese-influenced towns of the Konkan coast with the distinctly Dravidian culture of Kerala. It’s a route where North meets South, and where the journey is just as rewarding as the destination.

Culture, Cuisine and Quietude in Northern Kerala

​Northern Kerala’s charm isn’t confined to its waters. The region is a melting pot of Hindu, Christian and Muslim cultures, reflected in its unique architecture, music, and temple festivals. Visit the historic town of Vaikom, with its 11th-century Shiva temple and vibrant local market, or take in a performance of Ottamthullal, a satirical dance-drama that’s both entertaining and rich in political commentary.

And of course, there’s the food. Think fragrant coconut curries, banana leaf thalis, and steaming appams paired with fresh vegetable stew. Whether you're dining on a houseboat or at a homestay with a local family, Northern Kerala’s cuisine is humble, hearty, and full of flavour.

Banana leaf thali

Why Go Now?

​In a world where many destinations are buckling under the weight of over-tourism, Northern Kerala remains refreshingly unhurried. The pace is gentle, the landscapes are lush, and the smiles are genuine.

If you're seeking a quieter, more soulful side of Kerala, without sacrificing comfort or cultural richness, let us take you there - by train, by boat, and by the expert hand of local guides who know these backwaters like the lines on their palms.
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At Darjeeling Tours, we believe the best journeys happen when you step just slightly off the map.

Interested in exploring Northern Kerala by rail and boat?

Discover our upcoming small group tour Konkan Railways and Beyond or enquire about a bespoke itinerary tailored to your interests.

Vembanad Lake by Vinayaraj, CC BY-SA 3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Book your Konkan railway tour here